Takengon, Gayo: Learning the Art of Coffee Roasting

Takengon, nestled in the highlands of Gayo, Indonesia, is a place where coffee farming is more than a livelihood—it’s a tradition passed down through generations. Our journey to this region was not just to source beans but to understand the dedication and precision that go into growing, processing, and roasting coffee. On a small family-run farm, we experienced firsthand the intricate craft of coffee roasting, guided by farmers who have honed their skills through decades of practice.

The Old-Fashioned Way

Surrounded by rows of coffee plants, we began by learning about traditional roasting methods. The farmers showed us how they once roasted beans over an open flame, using a simple metal pan. It was a delicate process requiring constant attention, as uneven heat could easily ruin the batch.

To truly appreciate the difference modern methods make, we tried roasting a small batch this way ourselves. The uneven heat and constant stirring quickly proved challenging, with some beans scorching while others remained under-roasted. The experience gave us a profound respect for those who perfected this technique before the advent of roasting machines.

Experimenting with a Sample Roaster

Moving away from the open flame, we turned to a small sample roaster that the farmers used to test different roast profiles. This device allowed us to experiment with precise timing and temperature while staying on the farm. The farmers explained how the roasting process transforms the beans, releasing oils, deepening flavors, and changing the overall profile of the coffee.

We started with a light roast, stopping the process before the “first crack,” a distinct popping sound that marks the initial expansion of the beans as they release moisture. This roast preserved the fruity, floral notes characteristic of Gayo coffee, with a bright acidity that danced on the palate.

For a medium roast, we listened carefully for the first crack and let the beans roast a bit longer. This profile balanced the beans’ natural sweetness with nuttier, chocolatey undertones, a flavor many coffee drinkers associate with well-rounded brews.

Finally, we tried a dark roast, continuing the process past the “second crack,” when the beans’ structure begins to break down further, releasing more oils. The result was a bold, smoky flavor with a slightly bitter edge, masking some of the subtler characteristics but appealing for its intensity.

Each batch was a lesson in how roasting shapes flavor. The farmers emphasized that the beans themselves—density, size, and moisture content—determine how they respond to heat, making every roast a unique experience.

Commitment to Quality

Before we began roasting, we watched the farmers meticulously sort through the green beans. They inspected each one, removing any with visible defects, such as bug bites or deformities. Their standard was exacting: fewer than seven defective beans per 1,000. Anything above that threshold could compromise the final cup’s flavor and quality.

This dedication to quality control extended to every step of the process. The farmers explained how sorting out imperfect beans not only ensured consistency but also reflected their pride in their work and respect for the coffee they produce.

Sustainability at the Core

As we spent time on the farm, it became clear that sustainability was woven into every aspect of their operation. The coffee plants were grown under a canopy of native trees, preserving biodiversity and allowing the cherries to ripen slowly. The farmers used organic compost made from coffee pulp to enrich the soil, reducing the need for chemical fertilizers.

Water conservation was another priority, with innovative systems in place to recycle water used during the washing process. Beyond environmental efforts, the farmers also supported their community through fair wages and educational initiatives, ensuring that the benefits of their work were shared locally.