Ipoh, Malaysia: Blending Robusta and Arabica

Ipoh, Malaysia, is a city where coffee culture is deeply rooted in tradition, shaped by decades of craftsmanship and innovation. Our journey to understand its iconic white coffee took us into bustling kopitiams, local roasting facilities, and the homes of Indonesian farmers who cultivate the beans that make this coffee so unique.

The Heart of White Coffee

White coffee in Ipoh is defined by its distinctive preparation. The beans—often a blend of robusta, arabica, and liberica—are roasted with palm oil margarine, a technique that caramelizes the beans slightly. This unorthodox method enhances the natural sweetness of the coffee while creating a bold, layered flavor. The resulting brew is then served with condensed milk, adding a smooth, velvety richness that has become synonymous with Ipoh’s coffee culture.

In iconic kopitiams like Sin Yoon Loong and Nam Heong Old Town, this process has been perfected over generations. Watching the baristas pour coffee between kettles from great heights, we saw how aerating the brew enhances its texture and aroma. Each sip told a story of balance: robusta providing depth, arabica lending smoothness, and liberica adding its subtle fruity complexity.

Meeting the Farmers and Roasters

To truly understand the origins of Ipoh’s white coffee, we traced the journey of the beans to their source. Much of the coffee comes from Indonesia, where farmers in regions like Sumatra, Java, and Sulawesi grow beans that form the backbone of these blends.

In Sumatra, robusta thrives in the highlands, offering strength and body. On Java’s volcanic slopes, arabica develops its characteristic smoothness and bright acidity. In Sulawesi’s lush forests, liberica is cultivated, contributing a unique fruity and floral note that ties the blend together. Meeting the farmers revealed the depth of their commitment to sustainable practices, fair trade, and preserving the natural environment. Their dedication ensures not just quality but also a future for coffee farming in the region.

Back in Ipoh, the roasting process brought another layer of complexity. Local roasters use palm oil margarine in small-batch roasting, carefully monitoring the beans to achieve the ideal caramelization. This method, while unconventional, is integral to the flavor of Ipoh’s white coffee. One roaster explained, “The margarine doesn’t just roast the beans—it transforms them, bringing out their natural sweetness and balancing their boldness.”

Adapting Tradition

While white coffee has become widely known through instant packets that make it accessible to coffee lovers everywhere, we were inspired by the slow, deliberate process of brewing it fresh. The tradition deserves more than convenience; it’s a testament to the care and craftsmanship that go into every step, from the farm to the cup.

This journey deepened our appreciation for the unique harmony of robusta, arabica, and liberica. It’s not just about the flavors—bold, smooth, and subtly fruity—but about the people who make it possible: the farmers who nurture the beans, the roasters who transform them, and the communities that sustain this tradition. Ipoh’s white coffee embodies the connection between craft and culture, and it has inspired us to carry that spirit into everything we create.